Ordering a knife is basically a dialogue between myself and the purchaser. It usually starts as an email inquiry but my hope is that it goes to the phone. I love speaking directly with my customers.. especially on larger sword projects. The way it works is that the purchaser typically finds something on my website or through some other publication and I give a price quote for that piece or some modification of it. I’m open to doing some projects to the specs of the purchaser if it fits my own style or is a historical piece. I don’t take commissions on work that do not fit my style.. or is the work of somebody else. My work is usually a unique work of utilitarian art… but I am open to doing historical replicas (if I like the piece!).
Pricing can seem complicated and daunting if you are not familiar with all the terminology, but please feel free to give me a call so that I can better explain things. My prices are almost exclusively dictated by time involved rather than materials. Materials that DO add cost are those that are rare or ancient.. i.e. antique wrought iron, fossilized ivory or specialized woods. As a rough guide… the bigger the blade, the more time it takes.. so it’s more expensive. A knife with a fitted guard takes much more time than one without.. so there is a cost factor. A blade with a polished finish displaying heat treat patterns takes more time, etc. Damascus, pattern-welded steel, laminated steel and home-made steel are huge time investments so that get priced accordingly.
If my prices seem expensive it’s because I do everything myself using raw materials of heirloom quality. My work is unique and it takes a lot of time and requires a lot of resources. The world we live in makes it very difficult for a craftsman/artist to make a living and the pricing reflects this. Pricing also occasionally increases to reflect inflation and resource cost. So please support artisans like myself by expecting to pay quite a bit more than for industrial production work.
When an order is placed I try to give a time estimate. And I often deliver before that… but things do happen! Equipment breakdowns, mistakes in the work, family sickness, holidays, etc. I try to take all that into account, but like I said… things happen!
This is a rough pricing guide that is intended to give you an idea of how I estimate prices. Some things are difficult to objectively price i.e. the use of home smelted steel, engraving, inlays, file work, etc so keep that in mind when I arrive at an estimate.
Base price for small to medium size knives (with TOTAL lengths up to 10”) is $325. This price gets you a hand forged knife from high carbon steel with full tang and handle scales of premium burl or figured wood and a coarse grain working finish on the blade.
Base price for large knives (with TOTAL lengths from 10” to 18”) is $425. This price gets you a hand forged knife from high carbon steel with full tang and handle scales of premium burl or figured wood and a coarse grain working finish on the blade.
Add on features:
Base price for swords is $2000. This price includes a hand forged high carbon steel blade with antique wrought iron guard, wood grip, pommel and coarse grit working finish on blade.
Add on features:
Miscellaneous forged items:
I sometimes take deposits for accounting purposes to ‘get the order on my books’. I also will take deposits to cover non-standard expenses like exotic materials that I don’t keep in my shop. Deposits are fully refundable within 20 days of receipt, however these are forfeited after that period.
I typically use USPS Priority for shipping. Cost will vary with location and size of item unless I include shipping with the cost (sometimes I do).
My work is guaranteed for life (while I, myself, am still living). I will replace or repair any issues that arise resulting from my own craftsmanship as long as the blade is used in a manner consistent with it’s intended use. The buyer should be aware of how a particular tool is supposed to be used when purchasing it and should also keep in mind that my blades are specialty instruments designed for specialty jobs. For example, the thin edge of a kitchen for skinning knife might not have the correct edge geometry or temper for chopping and hacking hard woods. And no knife or sword should be used as extreme prying tools or used for chopping metal, rock and anything else that the knife is not intended for.